What to look for in these type of watches:
Manual Wind
Manual wind watches should be easy to wind up. When buying a manual wind watch, check to make sure that the watch winds effortlessly and that the crown is big enough to grip easily. If the watch is not easy to wind, keep in mind that it will only get worse. They do not "break-in".
The value of these watches is based on the type of case and band they possess. If the case is 18 karat gold, it will be worth more that 14 karat. If there are diamonds, it DOES increase the value of the watch.
The types of watches that still exist and are reasonably priced are the Omega and Longines brands. These watches will rarely be available except from a collector. However, they are the most affordable of the manual wind watches. Again, what you spend will depend on the type of case you prefer.
Among the more expensive types are Vacheron Constantine, Cartier, or Piaget. With these watches, expect to pay for a high grade case, the type of movement, and for the name. These watches are terrific. However, it is up to the consumer whether or not to pay those prices.
Look for this:
Sapphire does not scratch
Thick mineral glass scratches but does not break easily.
Thin glass scratches like the thick glass but when it breaks, it can become loose and fall out of the watch.
Automatic
There are only a few watches still around that are automatic. Most of these will be bought from collectors. Keep in mind that these wind by the action on your wrist so if they are not running in the showcase, do not turn away if you like the watch otherwise. It may not be wound.
These watches have sweep second hands which means that they move in a continuous motion. If you see it moving one second at a time, it is a quartz movement and not automatic. Furthermore, if the watch is supposed to have an automatic movement in it and it has quartz substitute, the value of the watch decreases because it is no longer the original movement.
Most companies make their own automatic movements. The most popular are Seiko, Omega, and Rolex. It is reasonable to believe that you will get what you pay for with regards to automatics.
Look for this:
Does the watch have the functions you want (i.e. calendar, day/date,stopwatch,etc.)?
Quartz
The first thing to remember is that these watches run on batteries. They do not wind up nor run based on the action of your wrist like the manual winds and automatic watches. The second hand goes one second at a time rather than in a continuous motion.
The money you will be spending will be primarily based on the name and the gold, silver and/or diamonds in the watch. Also, if the watch has an alarm or if it is a chronograph, it will be more expensive.
The most consistent movements (workings within the watch) are called ETA movements. These, or deriviatives of them, are used in many watches from Wittnauer to Tag Heuer. Omega uses their own movements which are occasionally derivatives of the ETA movements. If you find a watch with one of these type movements, you are safe.
Seiko and their equivalent companies (Pulsar, Citizen, Lassale, Noblia) use either their own movements or a Hattori movement which are adequate. The issue with Hattori movements are that they are small and mostly plastic causing parts to break easily. To their credit, they made the parts easily available so that these watches are not being repaired for long periods of time. If it is a genuine a Seiko movement, you are, again, safe.
Look for this:
Sapphire does not scratch
Thick mineral glass scratches but does not break easily.
Thin glass scratches like the thick but when it breaks, it can
become loose and fall out of the watch.
